Monday, December 7, 2015

When s*** hits the fan - IN THE RING! Part 2!

The last time I wrote, I talked about how to handle your dogs failures in training. Those same principles apply in the ring, but the fact that you are being judged at a trial tends to muddy the waters. Here's how I think of failures in the ring and I hope this post will empower more trainers to create their own protocol for what they should do if their dog is failing an exercise or exercises in the Obedience Ring.

Mark it!

If you are using markers in your training program - then use them in the ring. Giving the dog important information - in the place it matters most is just common sense. Besides, do what you would do normally in training.

Move on!

Do not spend additional time stressing your dog out with needless conversation that is really the handlers attempt at saving face with the audience. Forget about it and move to the next thing - QUICKLY. Motion is attention - so MOVE on to the next exercise!Marinating your dog in stress is one sure way to make the ring a bad place. If stress is taking over in one exercise, MOVE ON!

Support your dog!

If your dog surprised you, showed you holes in your training,or has clearly been abducted by aliens, then go into training mode. The judge will tell you if you are pushing it too far and may excuse you - IF THEY DO, BE POLITE AND GET OUT OF THE RING. This was about your dog, not arguing about an additional 4 minutes of failure in the ring - just THANKFULLY leave if your judge feels you took your "support" too far.

Leave!

If things are going from bad to worse, do not let it continue. Excuse yourself from the ring. Thank the judge for their time and walk out. You owe no one an explanation - this is not about their journey, it is yours. We spend so much time, money, effort in this, why let it go south? Many handlers have a hard time grasping that they own the ring. It is their entry that put them there - so spend your time and money wisely!

Train!

Ask for the same behavior that flopped in the ring, outside and if you get it (Without a motivator) then take the time to reinforce it. This really isn't a time to utilize corrective methods, but you certainly can reinforce pieces outside the ring (multiple times ideally) that the dog just couldn't give you in the ring. This is actually a smart idea as it serves to remind you the dog can do it and it simply may need more miles. You may find you need a new method, to counter condition a new correction, or find a different way to make things more clear!

Cancel your next shows!

Rarely can anyone fix severe problems quickly. If your dog is having lack of focus or attention, clearly isn't understanding without your motivators, etc - showing is the worst idea if you want to get back on track with being consistent. If your dog is struggling with generalizing behavior, then you have a lot of "on the road" work to do and it probably wont happen by next months show.

I wish you all much success in 2016 and remember, life is stressful, training your dog shouldn't be!

Saturday, December 5, 2015

When s*** hits the fan!

Dogs make mistakes!

In training mistakes happen (a lot) and no dog will ever be 100% PERFECT - but we increase consistency on the dogs part through teaching and reinforcing and then later through drilling and punishing as necessary. The problem is so many handlers have no plan when training goes south. You should have a plan of attack when your dog fails. How do you handle failures? I always am very perplexed when working with handlers and watch their dog make a mistake to see them avoid doing anything and stand there looking at me. Failure is time for action. You must do something. My protocol for failure is the following:

Teach the Correction you plan to use!

Counter Condition what you may need so when "shit hits the fan" the correction is not emotional, overly hard, or shuts your dog down. My version of the ear pinch (if you can call it that) is an excellent example of how we teach the correction before we use/need it. Here is a video to help you understand how we do this:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Yn8iCvhjU8

Mark it!

Negative markers give information and you NEED to give it immediately. I use the word "Wrong" it is way less emotional than "No" and doesn't sound horrible coming out even during frustrating sessions.

Act Immediately!

Making the mistake on the part of the dog is ok. Throwing of arms , head tilts, sighs etc. from handlers are not. You must act. I prefer to use energy in my corrections - so this is vital. For example: My dog looks away during static attention a push pop may happen. A push pop is where I use my left hand to push the dogs shoulder away from me as I pop the collar and move quickly away from the dog in a right hand circle. I have to act. Action is important.

Show them how to be right!

So they messed up - a five minute conversation with your dog full of additional conversation they don't understand, emotion, or defeat is not helping you at all. So once you have marked it and acted upon it - show them how to be right. For example: My dog and I are heeling along and something catches her eye, rather than pop and keep going, I follow the protocol I have established. I mark it - "Wrong"! I act - I stop and pop! I show - I remind them of where their focal point is and move forward with energy. If you don't show them what you want, moving forward is worthless as was your negative marker and your action. Follow it all through.

Ignore those around you!

Training is about you and your dog. Dogs are not here to impress your friends, trainers, haters, whoever. When you are working your dog, you must be just as engaged as you intend them to be. Failures will happen, no matter the audience, so stay connected with your dog and communicate for the relationship you want - if you change because of who is watching, you are not doing your job as part of the team.

Remember Failure is part of the learning process!

To be great, you must fail. You must be able to communicate with your dog about what is great, what is good, what is wrong and what is bad. We use Markers to bridge this gap. I love telling my dog when they are right, but I find it is way more important to tell them what isn't correct. To me, they learn the most from those situations as it supports how to be right and be reinforced.

Enjoy all the failures you and your dog will encounter. Embrace them as they are a big piece to this crazy puzzle of modifying a dogs behavior. Remember - Life is stressful, training your dog shouldn't be!

Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Socializing with Food - Dispenser Beware!


I love training with food. I even have to make myself take scheduled sabbaticals from it to ensure I’m not depending on it or using it incorrectly. Recently at a seminar I was giving I worked with a Doberman and her handler because in training the dog was “Perfect” but the moment the food was gone, the dog really changed. She became more environmentally aware, her performance was very lackluster and she was being corrected for lack of effort – but the corrections were doing nothing but kill the dogs attitude. It became very apparent that this dogs socialization skills were a product of a hidden sin – the dog never dealt with distractions because it was entranced in whatever smelly, slimy substance its handler had always pushed in its face.

Here are a few things to remember when socializing your puppies to avoid this happening to you.

FEAR is NOT all bad!

Every Handler wants a confident puppy, but very few dogs (even from the best breeders) don’t come out of the womb confident. It is learning to handle stress, release energy and clarity that make dogs confident.  When your 8 week old puppy shy’s away from the garbage truck – IT’S OK! The last thing you should do is present food in the place of leash pressure in these instances – luring the puppy to the distraction will only teach your puppy to avoid via fixation on food and when the food is there, the problem can be just as big as or bigger than before.

Smell is a Dogs #1 Sense!

The first sense a puppy gets is its sense of smell. It isn’t until roughly 14 days after birth ears and eyes begin to open, but by that time they had been using their sense of smell to locate a meal for two weeks. This makes smell a dogs #1 sensory. If you engage the sense of smell, you can turn a dog off to things around it. In essence, you are putting blinders on them. There is a place to do this and place not to do this and early socialization is one where you want to be careful to make sure the puppy is taking in things around it and not simply becoming entranced in cookies via avoidance.

Food is just a reward – it should be RANDOMIZED!

Lots of information has been said about this, so I will avoid repeating the same old obvious information. When a behavior is solid – sometimes it gets fed and sometimes it doesn’t. Many dogs have a tough time weaning off food because it had been a crutch and not a reward.

Sessions without food should be HIGH ENERGY!

Many people want to use food because it is easy. If you want your dog to learn to love work – you should break a sweat. Get down and dirty, playing like a dog to get your dog to engage with you – NOT a toy, NOT food, but YOU! Yes, you are going to run, pinch, grab, restrain, and hide from your dog. Yes, it is going to be strenuous! Yes, you are going to brave the elements of heat, rain, cold, and crazy awkward social situations to look like an idiot for your dog to learn to play with you without food. But hey, no one said this was easy!

Food should be used to negate corrections!

We are all familiar with the term “Lure/Reward” but I prefer “Lure/Correct” as it begins to counter condition the corrections I will be using on my dog. Additionally, it tells the dog that food will not take away stress – that only I have that power.


Remember – Life is stressful, training your dog should not be!
Get Frontline Plus for as low as $8 when you Join Pet Plus